I used to think Cairo was a dump. A noisy, dusty, congested cesspit; where the touts, the traffic, and the tower blocks blend into one seething unremarkable mass around the river Nile. Those were the days when I didn’t really know Cairo. Now I go there every year. To relax, to contemplate, and to surround myself with history. To walk along the banks of the Nile, photograph its many mosques, admire the night time skyline, and to absorb the unmistakable buzz of Africa’s largest city.
Although there are some elements of truth to my early objections. It is overpopulated (17million people) and the number of dent ridden, clapped out cars that occupy the streets often reduce traffic to a standstill. Everything is dusty, and what should take “just five minutes sir”, will for no apparent reason, take much, much longer. The poverty is obvious, and ugly tower blocks are constantly springing up to accommodate Egypt’s ever increasing population. With one million news mouths to feed every year, and no sign of slowing down, the city grows and the desert shrinks as the government desperately tries to keep up.
Most tourists who pass through this huge city make a B-line straight for the Giza plateau. Home of course to the great Pyramid, not to mention several thousand postcard vendors, men touting camels, pizza hut and KFC. And, having taken in this architectural feat that defies the imagination, the Egyptian museum is next on any classical itinerary. Together perhaps with a brief shopping/toilet stop at one of the many papyrus institutes, this completes the common perception of Cairo’s “must see” sights. And indeed, they should not be missed. But if you get past these, and take the time to look a little harder, this clumsy giant of a city will touch your heart.
Most visitors to Egypt will allocate one or two days in Cairo. After that, the majority will head south to Luxor (the former capital of the pharonic world) or the more adventurous may head east to Sinai, in search of the best hiking or diving spots. But if you find yourself with a free afternoon in Cairo and you have already visited the Giza plateau and the museum, this is how you should spend your time.
First find some lunch, something Egyption. A good falafel sandwich alone can be a reason enough to visit this part of the world. Unlike its neighbours, who use chickpeas, the Egyptian falafel is made from broad beans, pressed into small round balls and deep fried. Put into pita bread and add a little salad and tahini, and you have you have yourself a very tasty lunch for about 20pence (45 cents). Try the “Falfella” chain, which has a good reputation, and makes tasty sandwiches which are easy on our western stomachs, A lesser known, and more filling snack is Kosheri. A vegetarians’ complete delight. Consecutive layers of pasta, rice, noodles, lentils, macaroni, and chickpeas are served in a round metal dish with a tomato sauce, chilli and lemon. Simple, healthy, and very, very tasty, at first it’s hard to believe you have never made this yourself.
Cairo is littered with literally thousands of these Kosheri dens who’s menu has just three choices, small, medium, or large. Whilst most tour groups find an upmarket air conditioned restaurant in which to dine, I find sitting amongst the locals at the often communal tables is a real treat, and warm smiles are exchanged as we scoff down our food merrily.
Another sensory treat is the market of Khan El Khalili. Here you can find anything from spices to jewelry to belly dancing costumes, to stuffed rabbits smoking sheesha pipes. They say if they don’t have what you’re looking for, they’ll find somebody that does. And if you like to buy ‘tatt’, then this is definitely the place. Glittery key rings, false mustaches, and Arab headdresses are dangled in front of you as you make your way through the crowded streets. But cross the bridge and head away from the mosque and you’ll find yourself in the market of old Islamic Cairo, a section less commonly visited by the western tourists. The stalls sell nothing special, fabrics, clothes and underwear, but here you can catch a glimpse of real Egyptians going about their business. You’ll be left alone by the shopkeepers who don’t speak English, and be transported back in time, free to wander and enjoy the surrounding Islamic architecture.